May 7, 2004
of this week, we started back on 068. We will stay with it
until it's finished! We will try to give you two updates a
week. Remember, I said try. In these photos, we're joining
the original front of the car to the new floor.
are sanded with 36 grit for the new mat patches. While Jack
is attaching the body, I am repairing all the crash damage
in the complete front end.
are spider cracks everywhere. You could imagine a race car
hitting a utility pole at any speed is going to shock the
shit out of the fiberglass. All these spider cracks have to
flange and every joint has to be looked at. If they have separated
as a result of the accident, they have to be repaired.
this, the fiberglass has to be ground to about nothing and
then built back up. Around the headlight, the shiny areas
are where I have repaired all the cracked fiberglass. And
I mean all because if you miss one crack, it will re-crack
and no one wants to hear about that. I use the masking tape
to flatten the repair on the left front fender. If I didn't
use tape, it would take me three times more sanding to achieve
the smooth surface.
Peel ply would work, but not as good because it will not bend
can see, the tape follows the radius of the fender. To make
the lip underneath (upside-down) the tape holds the material
up in place. Peel ply would not achieve this. The headlight
bucket has had at least 30 repairs (cracks) and is now ready
to be sanded.
the tape, next comes the grinder.
fender is ready for filler and the right fender is ready for
and you can see the cracks in one of the fenders.
These have been ground away and recovered with a layer of
I am using
the hog (8" DA) to block the surface cracks away. While
resin is drying, I will take some pictures of Jack or at least
Jack's hands, attaching the body to the chassis in the front
glass does not stick (structurally) to paint or shiny surfaces,
metal or fiberglass.
We have to grind every surface with at least 36 grit before
I am skinning the front fenders, Jack has indexed the rear
pod and is attaching them to the chassis.
tuning on the chassis rails before attaching the trunk area
we use black pigment in the resin to keep the scratches to
The front trunks of most non-racing (factory) 904s were black.
repair work is finished after four days of itch hell. Now,
I have applied a thin coat of body filler and am now block
sanding the fenders. Remember, we use a thin layer of filler
to keep the pattern of the mat from bleeding through to the
surface of the final paint. We will also use duratech primer,
which will guarantee the areas that aren't covered with filler
will still be held from bleeding through. There is nothing
worse than to do all this glass repair and have the car sit
in the sun (which shrinks the materials at different rates)
and see the mat pattern. All 904s were made using silver gel
coat and they sprayed a lot of it on. If you have an uncrashed
or never been stripped 904, guaranteed, you will never see
pattern bleed on a good hot day!
We will update 068 again next week.
Previous Update | Next Update